Emily in Paris Heads to Rome: Our Family’s Insider Tips to Avoid the Crowds in Rome

Rome is incredible, but it’s also overwhelming. Luckily, my twenty-year-old daughter, who was living her best life studying abroad in the Italian capital, stepped up as our personal expert and local tour guide during our recent trip.

Without her, my husband, my seventeen-year-old daughter, and I might still be stranded on a bus somewhere, yelling at Google Maps to tell us how to get back to the hotel.

Thanks to her local knowledge, we didn’t just survive, we managed to hit some hidden gems and had experiences that turned out to be the highlights of our trip. It’s nice to see that paying for her expensive college tuition had a solid ROI, even if it was only for a week of finding the best gelato and hidden Roman ruins.

Even though Rome was already crowded during our visit, it’s about to go fully viral now that Season five of Emily in Paris debuts in December, and this time, the agency Emily works for is opening an office in Rome. So if you’re following the “set-jetting” trend, planning to see locations from the show, or joining the more than 51 million tourists who visited Rome in 2024, then this guide is for you.

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How to Avoid the Crowds in Rome Like a Local

1. Visit Lesser-Known UNESCO Sites 

Another popular travel trend is visiting UNESCO sites. Rome’s historic center is considered one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and includes all the attractions within the city. Beyond the obvious sites like the Colosseum, explore lesser-
known spots like Castel Sant’Angelo or the Jewish Ghetto.

Castel Sant’Angelo

I’d never heard of Castel Sant’Angelo before our visit. We ended up going because our daughter suggested it since her class went on a field trip there. I know what you’re thinking after reading that – the most exciting field trip I ever went on was to the local aquarium, too.

After learning about these “field trips” (the actual term they use is field study, but let’s call it what it really is: a fun experience like the ones in elementary school. I might’ve asked if they were still enrolling students in the study abroad program for a “friend”—obviously.

Unfortunately, there are no openings, just in case you were wondering, and it’s possible that my lack of college enrollment could’ve been an issue as well. But that seems like a technicality that needs to be further investigated. I’ll let you know what I find out.

Sorry for my digression, let’s get back to the castle.

It’s a historical circus, filled with lots of different residents throughout the years. Think of it as a Bravo Real Housewives show, starring emperors, soldiers, and inmates. Over time, it served as a mausoleum, a papal residence (where the pope lived), a state prison, a noble refuge, and a military fortress. Even Andy Cohen would agree that’s an interesting cast of characters, right?

Now that it’s a museum, it’s not as crowded compared to most attractions. You can learn about all of these past lives without bumping into tourists. It’s really a win-win, as far as I was concerned. It sort of reminded me of the Tower of London with all those different uses, but it lacked the cool Crown Jewels. I was okay without a crowded gem exhibit, but the Real Housewives would probably be disappointed.

Jewish Ghetto or The Jewish Quarter

Another place I suggest visiting is the Jewish Ghetto. I know “ghetto” doesn’t sound like a place you would want to add to your itinerary, and it also doesn’t sound like a politically correct term either, but even Rick Steves, the infamous travel guide, refers to the area that way. While you are fact-checking me, be sure to download his free audio tour and map of the area—it was really helpful!

The term “ghetto” is actually an Italian word. Historically, it refers to the period when the Popes forced the Jewish community to live behind walls in that single, tightly packed
neighborhood. They put strict rules on their daily lives, and it was an enforced segregation.

Today it’s an interesting place with excellent food and, of course, some ruins (you will soon see these are everywhere). Part of the reason I wanted to visit is that Rome is very Catholic. I’ve never seen so many groups of nuns and priests in my life as I did in Rome, and I even went to a Catholic college. So I was interested in learning about how another religious group lived historically and today. It did not disappoint. You should add it to your list—Yalla! (That’s a slang word used in the Hebrew language for basically saying add it to your list now).

2. Take a Cooking Class and Food Tour

The city’s more than 2,000 restaurants are rooted in ancient history, where Romans relied on communal thermopoliums (sort of like ancient fast-food joints) for daily meals. A cooking class or food tour is one way to understand this heritage.

My daughter took a cooking course during her study-abroad semester, and at her suggestion, we signed up for two culinary experiences and a guided food tour. It never would have occurred to me to do this on my own, but she insisted it’s one of the best ways to understand Italian culture.

For the food tour and pizza cooking class, Tenon Tours booked us a private class and tour with InRome Cooking. “Italy is culture, and its cuisine is the soul of it,” our guide told us. We stopped at three restaurants in Trastevere, a section of Rome, to sample different foods like pizza, meatballs, and cod. Then we learned how to make an authentic Italian pizza. I never realized cooking could be fun! Usually, my main culinary emotion is the sheer dread I feel when I ask myself, “What should I cook for dinner tonight?”

Since pasta is a main staple at our house, we decided to also take a pasta cooking class with Devour Tours. Again, I’m feeling like this study abroad program was worth the investment, especially if she uses her new cooking skills at our next family gathering, or even one meal would suffice.

3. A Side Trip to Tivoli and Its Villas

If you are following that UNESCO travel trend, you’ll definitely want to add Tivoli to your list. It’s located about a 45-minute drive from Rome. We visited two beautiful spots there: Villa d’Este and Villa Gregoriana.

I booked a tour through Daytrip, and we all loved it. This is a personal car service for the day that will take you exactly where you want to go, on your own schedule. We felt like a celebrity with our black Escalade-style vehicle. All that was missing was the gaggle of
girls.

4. Book a Guided Tour

We are DIY travelers who rarely book guided tours. But my daughter’s weekly guided “field trips” sold me on the idea.

We booked a three-and-a-half-hour Walks tour covering Palatine Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Colosseum. Besides sharing colorful stories, our guide carried a picture book that showed what the area would have looked like in Roman times. This was key to envisioning what the sites used to look like. It was sort of like the house renderings you see on a HGTV show for a fixer-upper, only this was for literal ruins, in reverse.

5. See Rome at Night

While researching Rome, none of my findings mentioned visiting at night. We just happened upon it. Every major monument—the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Trevi
Fountain, and the Pantheon are beautifully lit up and look different compared to daytime.

If the Pope commissioned a massive glow-up for the city, this would be it. Trust me, you need an evening walk on your schedule. Plus, it’s less crowded. It’s the perfect way to see these old gems in a whole new light (pun intended).

Extra Tip: Watch Out for Walkways That are Actually Streets

Now that I’ve told you about the fun stuff, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention this need-to-know fact: Rome’s narrow lanes are multi-use. The first time I strolled down a cobblestone alley, I assumed (you know what they say about assuming) it was pedestrian-only until a car sped by me. In Rome, even the tiniest alleys can be
shared with traffic. It made me appreciate those clearly marked streets in New York City. And at least in NYC, the cab drivers give you a warning honk before they almost hit you.

Alla Prossima (Until Next Time)

Hopefully, these tips will help you have the best time in Rome as we did. I’m sure Emily will recite this famous quote by Augustus, a Roman Emperor, in an episode or maybe one of her social media posts: “I found Rome a city of bricks and left it a city of ruins.”

Yeah, I know the word is actually marble, but ruins are literally everywhere, even in random alleyways, so “ruins” feels way more accurate. I can also picture Emily saying, “Why didn’t anyone tell me that cars drive on walkways?”

And that’s when Sylvie, with her signature smirk, shows her the article titled Emily in Paris Heads to Rome: Our Family’s Insider Tips to Avoid the Crowds in Rome.

“Apparently, you never studied abroad, went on a field trip, or bothered to read this article,” she quips. “You always preferred a good photo-op over actual preparation.”
Can’t wait for the new season to start!

About the author: Cheryl Maguire is an award-winning freelance journalist covering topics related to travel, science, mental health, and parenting. She holds a Master of Counseling Psychology degree. She is married and the mother of twins and a daughter. Her writing has been published in The New York Times, National Geographic, The Washington Post, AARP, Business Insider, AAA, SUCCESS Magazine, and many other publications. She is a professional member of ASJA and an active member of SATW. You can find her on Bluesky @CherylMaguire.